How Projects Are Finished

Our woodworking projects are built to stand the test of time. Some of them come unfinished, so you can apply that final look yourself. The rest are finished in two ways, depending on whether we expect them to be used with food. Regardless of which finish we used, you may find that time and wear have dulled or damaged the finish. The following instructions will help you maintain or repair the finish to keep things looking good for years.

Food-Safe Projects

Food-safe products like cutting boards are finished with a safe oil finish, usually food-grade mineral oil. This non-drying oil soaks into the wood to give it that nice look. Over time, the wood will start to look dull as the oil gets removed by dish soap in normal cleaning. To renew the look, simply wipe the board down with more mineral oil. Apply the oil liberally, adding more to dry spots. Allow the oil to soak in for 30 minutes, then wipe off the excess. Allow to dry for a few hours. It won’t dry completely, but it should no longer feel oily to the touch. If it does, wipe it down some more.

Furniture Projects

Furniture products are finished with an oil/varnish blend. This environmentally friendly, non-toxic finish looks good and is easily renewed or repaired. If the finish starts to look dull, you can wipe on further layers of finish right over the existing layers.

If your item is not going to be taken outside, you can wax it to maintain that like-new look. Although, once you start waxing it, if it gets wet, it will leave cloudy marks in the wax. Fixable, but annoying.

The process to renew the finish simple:

  • Be sure the surfaces are clean and dry
  • Apply the finish liberally with a lint-free rag
  • Allow to dry for 30 minutes
  • Wipe down
  • Allow to dry overnight
Questions?

 

Where do I get this finish?

I make my finish for two reasons: cost and control of the ingredients. If you are not doing a lot of finish work and don’t want to experiment, I recommend heading to the hardware/big box store and getting a can of wiping varnish. An example that’s widely available is Watco Danish Oil. As far as I know, it doesn’t contain oil from Danes, so much for truth in advertising. It is a thinned varnish designed to be wiped on (as opposed to brushed or sprayed). It also comes in various colors, though I would call them tints since what you get in practice is not nearly as vibrant as you might think looking at the picture on the can. For our purposes, choose “Natural.” This will have no tint added though, as with all varnish, you will get a warm yellow cast as the layers build. Follow the directions on the can. Some of these products contain linseed oil and can be a fire hazard if you are not careful.

If you are feeling adventurous, you can make you own. Actually, it’s not hard at all. See my Linseed Oil Recipes page for instruction.

How thick should I apply the finish?

The surface should look wet, but no puddles. If possible, do this in stages so you are only working on horizontal surfaces.

How many times can I do this?

As many as you like. You are effectively using a wiping varnish. This will slowly build a film finish so if you want a glossy look, keep going until you get there. A satin look will take 3-5 coats. A flat look, a few as you can stand.