Using Boiled Linseed Oil
A Jar of Oil/Varnish Blend
Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO from here on out) is pretty viscous and, as noted above, by itself, not a good long-term finish. I use it in a blend of ⅓ BLO, ⅓ Varnish, ⅓ Mineral Spirits. This flows more easily and more quickly and builds a nice sheen that’s also more durable than BLO alone.
I generally make it a quart at a time. That first coat is laid on in a rather generous fashion, with as much of it will be absorbed into the wood’s pores in 30 minutes or so. Then wipe off the excess and let dry overnight. Subsequent coats are ragged on and will dry in 6-8 hours, making building a sufficient finish more tolerable to the impatient woodworker (me).
The stuff I use around the shop gets two coats (it allows you to scrape off glue easily and differentiates that piece of wood from scrap wood). Furniture that leaves the shop gets four coats, sometimes more if it will see high use. Even this isn’t sufficient for something like a tabletop that gets a polyurethane or lacquer top coat.
Another Technique
I got this from makesomething.com; it’s another technique for doing the same thing I outlined above. Captured here because the original link is already dead. His blend is the same as mine, except he uses polyurethane instead of varnish. The difference between the two is minimal these days; they are both synthetic resins in a solvent and oil base.
Preparation
- Sand down to 220 grit and remove all machine marks.
- Finish sanding the project Using the maroon, grey, and white abrasive pads.
Application
- Flood the surface with the oil/poly blend with a foam brush and immediately rub off any excess finish with a rag.
- Let the project sit for 10 minutes, and return with a fresh paper towel to wipe down all surfaces.
- After 24 hours, repeat all the steps from day 1.
- Once again, wait 24 hours and repeat all the steps from the previous day.
- After waiting another 24 hours, apply the final coat with a rag, and this time, do not wipe it off.
- After waiting 24-48 hours for the project to dry, apply a coat of Briwax wax by rubbing it generously onto the surface and then buffing it in with a fresh paper towel or rag.
Add Wax
Beeswax is another very common finish, both on its own and in conjunction with linseed oil. Rubbed into the wood surface, you get a nice finish, though it is not very durable. Applied over an oil finish, it looks even better and is how we see it used later in the period and into modern times.
Using Plain Linseed Oil (Boiled or otherwise)
Linseed oil isn’t a film finish (like varnish or shellac); it soaks into the pores of the wood and dries. This accentuates the figure and grain of the wood, but it isn’t very protective. However, it’s easy to repair; just recoat it. To get a shinier finish, add more coats. Add a coat (or more) of wax to keep it shiny.
Applying Wax
I usually start with a plain linseed oil coat and apply it liberally with a paintbrush. If by the time I finish coating a project, there are dry areas already, I coat that area again. Come back at least 30 minutes later, but it could be hours to wipe off any remaining excess. Allow it to dry overnight. If it’s cool, it might take as many as two or three days to fully dry.
It looks pretty good already, right? Well, yes, but it doesn’t have much of that sheen yet. So, you will want to add additional layers of oil. These additional layers will be thinner. You are building finish now; the wood won’t be soaking up much more, if any. So, for subsequent coats, I apply it with a cloth and wipe on a layer, then let it dry overnight (or longer).
There is an old adage that I believe is 18th Century:
One coat a day for a week, one coat a week for a month, one coat a year forever.
Nice, eh? Well, it won’t stay that way. Over time, the wood will dry out and start to look dull like it is covered in a fine layer of dust. To avoid that, you need to add more layers of oil or some other finish to protect the oil layer. That’s wax.
Once the oil has fully cured, apply wax. The commercial stuff or something you whip up yourself. Rub it in, and be sure you get a nice, even coat. Allow to dry and then buff off. Now, you’re done. For now. The wax will also dry out over time, just slower. Again, it’s really easy to renew it by adding a new coat.
Don’t get too froggy here. Putting on six coats of wax is a waste of time. The paste includes solvents for wax, so you are, at best, making a slightly thicker layer of wax. You can’t really build layers like that.